Elan 511 - Tutorial

Part One: Trace, Cut and Assemble Cups

This tutorial is for Elan 511. Elan 511 has a partial, this tutorial can also apply to other partial band patterns. If you have read the Elan 645 tutorial, you'll notice that some of the instructions are the same - that's because some of the same things apply, especially to the cutting out process. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 32A, it seems that Elan 645 fit my daughter well in this size, so I am hoping for the same with this pattern.

Once you have your pattern and have found your size - this pattern includes the measuring instructions - find the pieces and trace them. You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces, so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch on the tricot. The tricot is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.


Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors - all the time, except for the rectangular bridge piece which is easily to cut with a rotary cutter.

You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW. You can use it layered with the tricot for back bands and lower cups, and you can use it under lace for a little more stability. If you're making a smaller size, you might not need as much structure, but it can be a good idea for the larger sizes. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or tricot depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet or tricot and the rectangle for the bridge in tricot.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace. As a side note regarding this particular pattern, the first two of these I've made, both in different sizes, I noticed that there was not as much coverage in the upper cup at the armhole side. Since this will be the third time sewing this pattern for me, I've add a little extra at the armhole side - this is now more like Elan 645. The new line is on the left and the original on the right - just a little extra triangle of fabric is all that is needed.


Place the upper edge of the pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side. Flip the pattern piece over to cut out the lace for the other side, aligning the pattern piece to have as close to a mirror image as you can get.

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments can not. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to consider the top edge finish. If you are just using stretch lace for the upper cup, then you have no finishing to do. If you are using the stretch lace over another fabric, you will need to attach the two fabrics together. To see how this is done, please check out this tutorial from Elan 645.

Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*. You can see lace sandwiched in between in the photo below.


Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened and pressed.

The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge and bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

Elan 511 Tutorial Starts Monday!

I apologize for not getting this tutorial posted sooner. Between clients and children's school vacation days due a teacher's convention, the tutorial is not quite ready. The first post is almost there and will be posted on Monday.

Elan 645 - Tutorial

Part Five - Wires, Straps and Closure

This is the last post for this particular pattern! These last few things not hard at all - if you've made it through the elastic and the channeling, this is a little bit easier.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine. I will have to say that I made the smallest pattern size available, a 32A and I did not have wires this small. I was able to steal wires from another bra my daughter had that was going to be retired anyway.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to.


The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".


2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.


3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.


4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.


That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.


Take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.


Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.

Bring the strap around to the back of the bra and line up the edge of the strap with the last unfinished edge of the back.


You can see this better from the wrong side:


Zigzag close to the edge of strap to attach it, then bar tack at the elastic. This is a stress point, so it is a good idea to make it secure.



The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.


You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on.


You're done!


As a side note: I was not sure of the fit of this size for my daughter, but when she said that the other cups were not covering as much any more and the bands were too tight, I was pretty sure this would work. Once she tried it on and we adjusted the back and straps properly it fit right, she said it was comfortable. She did a wear test all day today and said it was "Wonderful." It fits just like the old ones, but just a bigger size.

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Four

Elastics and Channeling

Actually, it is: elastic, channeling, elastic, in that order. You attach the bottom elastic, then the channeling, and then the top elastic.

The bottom elastic is the first elastic to be sewn in place. This elastic is usually the wider elastic, although some of the smaller sizes can use the 3/8". Otherwise, this elastic is 1/2" or wider. The application of this elastic is important in the proper fit because if the whole thing is not tight enough, there will not be the right support in the final product. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully!

Since I'm making the band with the seam under the cup, I'll be showing those instructions. Measure the bottom edge and then calculate 80% of that number. That is amount of elastic you'll need. Once you've cut that amount, fold it in half and mark the center.

Pin the center of the elastic to the center of the bridge and then pin from the center to the band seam on either side *without* stretching the elastic. Place the elastic with the plush side up on the right side of the fabric and the smooth edge with no picots aligned to the raw edge of the fabric. It is easy for me to remember: smooth edge to smooth edge.


Then pin from the seam to the end of the band. You will have to stretch the elastic to fit. The simplest way is to mark the remaining ends of elastic at the halfway point and the remaining band at the half way point and pin those.


The elastic will be stitched in place with two seams. If you are basting for a try on, use a long straight stitch for the first pass and a very wide zigzag for the second pass. If you're permanently sewing the elastic in place, use a small zigzag and stitch close to the picot (or looped) edge. Make sure that the needle is just on the edge of elastic when it swings to the left. I use a zigzag setting of 2.0 for width and length. Be careful to only stretch the elastic, but not the fashion fabric when sewing. It is very easy to do so, because the band is stretch, too!


Turn the elastic to the inside along the zigzag stitching and then stitch again using a zigzag stitch or multi-step zigzag close to the smooth edge of the elastic like you did on the first pass.

This is what the elastic will look liked from the inside when completely finished:

The seam elastic, as seen from the outside:


Now the bra is ready for channeling. The channeling is applied to the seam that joins the cups to the band. Working from the *cup* side of the seam, pin the channeling in place, with the seam on the channeling lining up with the seam joining the cups and band. It is fine to have excess at the top of the bridge - this can be trimmed away later. Leave 1/2" of space at the underarm edge. You will be applying elastic to that edge and it is easier to turn and stitch if you do not have to stitch through elastic and a double layer of channeling.

Stitch right along the stitching line of the channeling to attach the one side to the seam allowance. If you're stitching for a try-on, just use a long basting stitch for both sides of the channeling.

Turn the channeling and the seam toward the band, covering up the cup/band seam allowance. Now, top stitch the other edge of the channeling in place. Here is what it looks like from the inside and outside. Yes, you will be stitching over some of the band elastic. That's what you're supposed to do.


Now that the bottom elastic and channeling is in place, it is time to add the top elastic. This elastic is applied in the same way that bottom elastic is applied. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to 80% of the length of the top edge measurement. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to leave 1/2" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.



Do not worry if your elastic does not look perfect on your first try. This is a skill that will improve over time and with practice.

This is what we have so far, almost done!



The next and final tutorial will be straps and finishing.

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Three

Bridge and Band

Once the cups are completed the next steps are to prepare the bridge and band and then attach the cups.

The bridge itself does not need to stretch, so even though it is cut in the direction of least stretch, it still benefits from being interfaced with a non-stretch interfacing. Once interfaced and marked, the bridge is ready to be attached to both of the sides bands.

First the bridge pieces are placed right sides together. The band pieces are then sandwiched in between the bridge layers at the sides, just like how the cups were made. Like the cups, this will hide the seam allowances and make for a smoother inside.


The bridge pieces are then stitched together on both sides and along the top edge.


Once turned right side out, you will have the entire bridge/band unit:


Now the cups can be sewn to the band. Matching raw edges and notches, carefully pin the cups into place. The cup seam (between lace and solid) matches the notch closest to the center of the bridge. The bottom notch on the solid portion of the cup matches the notch on the band.
Since this is a very curved seam, take your time and use plenty of pins, then stitch.


Once both cups are in, this is what you will have, which is now ready for elastics, channeling and finishing:

Tomorrow's post: elastics and channeling!

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Two

Getting Ready, Sewing for Fitting, Cups

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments can not. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to consider the top edge finish. If you are just using stretch lace for the upper cup, then you have no finishing to do. If you are using the stretch lace over another fabric, you will need to attach the two fabrics together. You can see the lace pinned in place below, and the notches marked in water soluble marking pen.


I use a small zigzag and stitch along the edge of the lace, following the curves.

After stitching, I trim away the excess fabric from behind the lace.


Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened and pressed.



The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge/bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part One

Trace and Cut

We'll be starting with the tutorial for Elan 645. Elan 645 has a full band, so much of what will be covered in the tutorial can apply to any similar pattern with a full band. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 32A, probably cut down a bit when we get to the fitting process. My daughter needs new bras, I need samples for tutorials and you need a tutorial - we all win!

Once you have your pattern and have found your size - remember that I emailed you regarding wire size, which is the same as the pattern size - you'll need to find the correct sized pattern pieces. They are grouped by band size. For this pattern there are two options: one, a partially stretch band and stretch cups and two, a band that is stretch only in the back with non-stretch cups. Which option you chose will decide which pattern pieces you'll need for the band. For this tutorial, I am making the stretch cup version.

You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces (hallelujah!), so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.


Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch on the tricot. The tricot is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.

Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors - all the time, except for rectangular piece which are easier to cut with a rotary cutter. You'll rarely see those in this type of sewing anyway.


You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW. You can use it layered with the tricot for back bands and lower cups, and you can use it under lace for a little more stability. If you're making a smaller size, you might not need as much structure, but it can be a good idea for the larger sizes. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or tricot depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet or tricot and two of the bridge in tricot.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace. Place the upper edge of the pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side.


Flip the lace piece over to cut out the other side. Use the scalloped edge of the already cut edge to locate a repeat so that you get a mirror image.

If you have a double scalloped lace, like I'm using for the sample, sometimes the opposite edge has a better mirror image.

Once cut and placed side by side, you can see that the lace motifs form a mirror image starting at the center.


The next installment will be on Thursday, starting with a few words about machine set up and then getting to make the cups!