Thursday, March 25, 2010

Elan 530 - Tutorial - Part Two

Bridge and Back Band

To prepare the bridge, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the bridge.  Fold the bridge, right sides together, and stitch the raw edges at the top together.

Turn the bridge right side out, and press.

With right sides together, stitch each diagonal edge to the cups, aligning the top of the bridge with the top of the cup. Bridge width can vary. If you have a bra that has a bridge with a good width for you, then trim the bridge to the same width before stitching. If not, just baste both sides so that you can adjust the width later.

 Stitch one side, and then stitch the other side of the bridge to the other cup.

To prepare the back bands for attachment, the bottom elastic will need to be sewn on. Cut a piece of elastic 80% of the measurement of the bottom of the back band. Place the elastic on the band with the plush side up on the right side of the band, and the straight edges together as shown below.  The elastic will be smaller than the back band, so you will need quarter mark both the elastic and the band and then pin the elastic to the band matching the marks.  To quarter mark, fold the item in half and mark the half way point.  Then, with the item still folded in half, fold it in half again and mark the two positions between the half way point and then ends. 

The elastic will be stitched on in two passes. First, stitch close to the loop edge with a small zigzag.  You will need to stretch the elastic as you sew it.  Be careful not to stretch the band, too, as your band will then be out of shape permanently.  This can be a bit tricky because the band is a stretchy fabric too!  Be patient and sew slowly, stretching from pin to pin.  This is what the stitching will look like:

Then turn the elastic to wrong side of the band and stitch with a zigzag close to the straight edge of the elastic.  You will be stitching with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. If you are basting this together for a try on, you can use a long straight stitch for the first pass, and a wide zigzag for the second pass.

This is what it looks like from the outside and inside:

Stitch the back bands to the cups, right sides together, aligning the marks and the top edge with the armhole edge of the cup.

Now we ready for the channeling and upper elastic, and you should have what looks like this:

Next Post:  Channeling and upper elastic!

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