Hooks and Wires

Elan 530 - Tutorial - Part Three

Channeling and Upper Elastic

Once the bridge and back bands are applied, the channeling can be added. Fold the bridge and the cup so that they are right sides together with the cup.  The channeling is then applied with the seam of the channeling lined up with the two previous (bridge and band) seam lines. Make sure that the folded edge of the channeling is facing away from the cup and other fabrics at this point.

Make sure to stop stitching the channeling about 1/2" from the armhole edge so that the elastic will be easier to apply in the next step - the pin on the far left that is perpendicular to the channeling is my mark for stopping. You can trim away the channeling about 1/2" away from the armhole edge, too. 

Stitch the channeling in place along the seam line of the channeling.  When done and unpinned, it will look like this:

Fold the channeling to the inside of the cup and topstitch the folded edge of the channeling down.

To finish the top edge, 3/8" elastic is applied. This elastic is applied in the same way as the bottom elastic from the previous post, with two passes of zigzag stitching. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to the 80% of the top edge measurement, plus 1" extra if using full elastic straps. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to optionally leave 1" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.

Almost done - all that is left is straps and finishing, which is the next tutorial!