Reader Question

From an anonymous reader: "When you have the multiple patterns listed again, would you be able to talk about the differences between them? I'm at the very lowest end of the size range, and was wondering which would be more likely to be flattering and fit."

I have both Elan 645 and Elan 511 available right now, which are good examples of the two basic band styles of bras. This is Elan 645, a full band bra. Note that the band goes completely under the cups:

This is Elan 511, a partial band bra. Note that the band stops at the wire line of the cup, the band does not continue under the cup and that the cups are connected at center front with a rectangle of fabric

As far as differences between the two styles, aside from the visual ones that I've already pointed out, there is a bit of construction difference concerning the attachment of the bands and bottom elastic and concerning which direction the wire channeling is turned and stitched (this detail is not shown in the pattern cover art).

I have made both of these patterns in various sizes, in the smallest size available, a medium size and one of the largest sizes. The tutorials on this blog for both Elan 645 and Elan 511 were made in the smaller sizes for each pattern, I believe I made 32A or 34A. Both were for my daughter, so they were fitted to and worn by a real person, and can be seen below.

If you're making a smaller size, you do not have some of the concerns of support that the larger sizes do. Both styles were equally flattering in the smaller size and fit fairly well with the only adjustments being made to the band. Either style is suitable, and would depend on your preference.

As far as fit, with any clothing item made at home, there is almost always some fine tuning that will need to be done to make it fit correctly. I have found that the fit of Elan patterns is consistent from style to style regardless of size, so if you make a 34A in one style, it fits the same in another style.

There are merits for either pattern, for pure looks and ease of fitting, I'd pick Elan 511. It needs wires and I'll be honest, I don't carry wires that small in the right style. That pattern needs a demi wire in those really small sizes. I had to steal wires from an old bra of my daughter's that we were retiring to get the wires. Elan 645 has merits in that the cups can be made in a non-stretch fabric, and can be made without wires. Many smaller sizes do not want a wire, and this pattern will work without the wires.

I hope that helps a bit for those of you who have a smaller size, yet want something pretty that doesn't look like a trainer for a 10 year old.

Basics

Basics

This post was orginially post on the Lingerie Sew Along blog, which is a private blog. The content was excellent, so I asked the original author, Tina of lingeriecrafter (do check out her blog - she makes some really lovely things!) if I could repost the information. She has graciously allowed me to post it here. I have added some information regarding supplies in blue type.

Bra terminology

To help our new members and also those who are not native English-speakers (I'm one too!) I thought I'd add a labeled bra diagram.

It took me ages to find a decent line drawing of a bra, but I finally got one from an Indian website. Unfortunately, the terminology there was different from what we use, so I'm just going to add labels here. (Please feel free to correct my usage, and I will make the necessary changes.)

This is a full-band bra with a three-piece cup. Note: A partial band bra will not have the band extending under the cups. There will smaller versions of piece #6, the bridge and #7, the wing that do not connect under the cups.

1. Bra strap attachment
2. Bra strap Straps can be made of bra strap elastic, which is usually plush on one side and shiny on the other - this is what I provide in the kits - usually the larger the size, the wider the strap. Non-stretch straps can be made from the same fabric as the bra for a little more support and no stretch. Straps also can be a combination of stretch/non-stretch so that there is a little give for wearing comfort.
3. Slider (for adjusting bra strap length) These come as pairs, and you'll need two sets for each bra. The ones in my kits are metal coated nylon, no plastic to possibly break, and of course the nylon will take dye.
4. Hook and eye closure Closures come in a variety of widths, but the main thing to note is that the larger the bra and wider the back band, the more hooks are needed. You can always trim down a back closure to a smaller number of hooks/eyes if you need to. The edges will not fray.
5. Bra cup. The number is exactly on the apex - the point furthest away from the body. Bra cups can be made from a variety of fabrics, but it best to follow the guidelines for the pattern you are using; some cups are stretch and some are not. The advantage of using a one way stretch fabric (like one-way stretch tricot) is that you can cut the sections that need stretch with the direction of stretch and those that do not in the direction in which there is no stretch. In general, larger cups sized pattern may not be drafted for stretch fabrics as a non-stretch or very low stretch cup will better support a larger figure.
6. Bridge This is the center section between the cups. It is almost always non-stretch. The bridge may be interfaced to give it strength. A small piece of fusible interfacing can be used, so if don't throw away little scraps!
7. Wing As noted below, some patterns have this piece combined with piece #9, so it might be cut with stretch. For larger sizes, this seam is an advantage because it is a place to add a small piece of boning for extra support.
8. Power bar or sling Not always used in all bras; nor will you find it in all patterns. This is an optional piece inside the cup which provides extra support, especially for the larger sizes.
9. Bra back This portion of the bra is usually cut with stretch and can be made of stretch fabric, powernet or other fabrics like lace or sheer with powernet underneath for support
10. Bra band elastic This elastic is plush on one side and smooth on the other. The plush side of course, makes wearing the bra comfortable. In general, larger size bras will use large widths of elastic. Since much of the support of a bra is in the band and cups (not straps!) then it makes sense to use elastic that is the correct size for the bra being made.
6+7+9+10 all together make up the bra band.
Many patterns have 7+9 as one piece.

The red line indicates the top edge of the bra, also called the neckline.
The blue line indicates where the underarm elastic is attached The underarm elastic, which continues on the back band toward the hook and eye closure is another plush back elastic, usually 3/8" in width, but for very large sizes, 1/2" might be more suitable.

I hope that this will help you if you are new to this type of sewing - it all seems a bit confusing at first because it is a whole new vocabulary and a whole new set of notions and fabrics. After a while, though, it gets easier, I promise.

Basics

Sizes

Once you decide which pattern company you will purchase your pattern from, the next question is generally, "What size do I need to make?" Like RTW and patterns for sewing other garments, not everything is sized the same. Bra pattern sizes may be slightly different from company to company, so to start with you'll need your pattern instructions and some accurate measurements.

How do I measure?

All you need to measure is a reasonably well fitting bra (I realize some of you may not have a perfectly fitting bra, and that's why you're making one!) a flexible tape measure, a pen and something to write on. Measuring is best done with a helper - this doesn't have to be anyone experienced in sewing, their main purpose is to help you make sure that the tape measure is level and horizontal across your back when measuring, to help hold the tape measure and to write down numbers. Lacking a helper, you can use two mirrors to check the position of the tape measure in the back and a binder clip to hold that tape measure together in the front while you adjust the back.

What do I measure?

You'll only need two measurements to find your size. Each pattern company has its own set of directions for measuring and its own size charts, but they all follow the same general pattern. That pattern is to find the underbust measurement, which will help determine your band size and to find the overbust measurement and possibly the high bust measurement which will help determine cup size.

How do I measure the underbust?

While wearing your best fitting bra, loop the tape measure around yourself and measure around the body, underneath the bust making sure that the tape measure is level and horizontal across the back. Be sure that the tape measure is snug and not loose for this measurement. Do not exaggerate your posture or puff your chest out. The bottom band of the bra is a major player in the support system of the bra and you don't want a band that is too loose. If your pattern uses American sizes, jot this number down, and then follow the instructions in the pattern to find the band size. Usually you will add 4" or 5" to this measurement to come up with an even number. For example, if your under bust measurement is 33", you would add 5" to equal 38". This is the band size. By contrast, most European patterns do not do the the add 4" thing, your band size is the size you measure in cm.

How do I measure the overbust?

While wearing your best fitting bra, loop the tape measure around yourself and measure around the bust, across the fullest part of the bust, making sure the the tape measure is level and horizontal across the back. Do not pull the tape measure tight for this measurement. Measure comfortably, but not droopy loose, either. Write this number down. You will need this number to help determine cup size.

How do I determine cup size?

This measurement really is pattern specific and there are two or three general ways of doing this via American sized patterns - use the method in your pattern! Here are few ways to do this. One way is to subtract your band size from the overbust measurement and then determine the cup size from the difference; a difference of 1" equals an A, 2" equals a B, etc. For example, if your band measurement is 38" and your overbust measurement is 41" then you have a difference of 3" and your cup size is a C. Some patterns (like Kwik-Sew) will have you measure what is sometimes referred as the high bust measurement. This measurment is taken above the bustline, right at armpit level, with the measuring tape level and horizontal across the back, with a comfortable tension - not pulled tight. This high bust measurement is then subtracted from the overbust measurement and cup size is determined the same way; a difference of 1" is an A cup, etc.

Measuring is not hard, but it is essential to put you at the right starting point for fitting. If you can get a reasonably close fit, then it will take fewer adjustments to get you to a great fit. Like all sewn clothing, you have to have a starting point and fit from there. The measurements are only a tool to help you get the right fit.

Basics - Part One

Patterns

To get started making anything, you'll need a pattern. There are many companies that make bra patterns both here in the US and abroad. Each pattern company uses sizes that are relevant to the country of origin. If you're using a Sewy pattern from Germany, then most likely you will be using metric sizing. If you're using an EZI-Sew pattern from New Zealand, then your pattern will have the type of sizing used in Australia and NZ. If you're from the US and have never used foreign patterns before this can be a bit confusing, especially for something that you've never sewn before. Since I am gearing this blog mainly towards the North American readers, I will recommend patterns with US sizing.

What patterns are avaible in US sizing?

There are three companies that I am aware of with US sizing: Kwik-Sew, Elan and Pin-Up Girls. Kwik-Sew and Elan are fairly easy to get - do a Google search for those, and they'll show up. You might even have a fabric store in your area that sells Kwik-Sew. To see styles (and purchase, too!) of both Elan and Kwik-Sew, you can either go to Sew Sassy or to Fabric Depot. The Pin-Up Girls patterns can be ordered from Bra Maker's Supply in Canada.

What kind of pattern should I buy?

Well, most importantly, it depends on your size and need for support. Most patterns are drafted for A through D cups, with or without wires and with a full band or partial band under the cups. Patterns in size ranges for DD cups and beyond usually have a full band only under the cups and wires. One major difference is the types of fabrics the pattern is drafted for. The larger the size, the more support is need from the cups and band. In these cases, the fabrics need to have no stretch or minimal stretch. For smaller sizes and styles, fabrics with more stretch is used and the patterns are drafted to allow for stretch in the cups. Beyond considerations for support - which is why you're wearing a bra in the first place - then the choice is yours for the look of the final product that you'd like. Don't forget that you can change the look of a basic pattern by placement of lace and other trims.

Now, I have a question for you. I *might* have an opportunity to make available a certain pattern line. I was thinking it would be nice to offer a bundled kit for those beginners who would like to give this whole idea a try. I would like to offer a beginner's kit with a pattern, a white kit (fabric/notions/wires) for use in making a muslin/trial bra, and then a colored kit (fabric/notions/wires) for making another pretty bra. You'd have everything you'd need except for the sewing machine and thread. In the end, you'll end up with at least one wearable bra, and maybe two if the white one works out! What do you think? Let me know in the comments!