Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Four

Straps and Finishing

This one is almost done, but there are three more things to finish before it is wearable: straps, wires and back closure.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to.

The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".


2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.


3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.


4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.


That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.


Take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.

Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.


Bring the strap around to the back and bar tack in place at the marks indicated on the pattern. If you're making this for a try on, just stitch across the strap several times with a regular stitch length. This is strong enough for a try on, yet easier to rip out than a bar tack.


The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.


You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on.

You're done!

Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Three

Channeling and Upper Elastic

Once the bridge and back bands are applied, the channeling can be added. Fold the bridge and the cup so that they are right sides together with the cup.


The channeling is then applied with the seam of the channeling lined up with the two previous (bridge and band) seam lines. The folded edge of the channeling should face away from the cup and any fabric.

Make sure to stop the channeling about 1/2" from the armhole edge so that the elastic will be easier to apply in the next step.

Stitch the channeling in place along the seam line of the channeling.

Fold the channeling to the inside of the cup and topstitch the folded edge of the channeling down.


To finish the top edge, 3/8" elastic is applied. This elastic is applied in the same way as the bottom elastic from the previous post, with two passes of zigzag stitching. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to the same length as the top edge measurement. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to leave 1/2" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.


Almost done - all that is left is straps and finishing, which is the next tutorial!

Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Two

Bridge and Back Band

To prepare the bridge, fuse a 1"x3" strip of interfacing to the center of the bridge rectangle.


Fold the rectangle, right sides together, so that the longer edges are aligned and stitch.


Turn the rectangle right side out, center the seam at the back and press.


Mark in 1/2" from the ends along one side.


Trim off a triangle from either side, starting at one corner and ending at the marks.


*Note: As a matter of personal taste, I prefer not to gather the center of the bridge as shown in the pattern, so I leave mine plain. If you want to gather the center as per the pattern instructions, that is fine, it is up to you. Basically, gather the center of the bridge using a strong thread and then stitch along the center to keep the gathers in place.*

With right sides, together, stitch each diagonal edge to the cups, aligning the center of the bridge with the seam on the cup. Bridge width can vary. If you have a bra that has a bridge with a good width for you, then trim the bridge to the same width before stitching. If not, just baste both sides so that you can adjust the width later.

Here's what we have so far:

To prepare the back bands for attachment, the bottom elastic will need to be sewn on. Cut a piece of elastic the same measurement as the bottom of the band. Place the elastic on the band with the plush side up on the right side of the band, and the straight edges together as shown below.


The elastic will be stitched on in two passes. First, stitch close to the loop edge with a small zigzag.


Then turn the elastic to wrong side of the band and stitch with a zigzag close to the straight edge. If you are basting this together for a try on, you can use a long straight stitch for the first pass, and a wide zigzag for the second pass.

This is what it looks like from the outside:


Stitch the back bands to the cups, right sides together, aligning the marks and the top edge with the cup seam.

Now we ready for the channeling and upper elastic, which is the next post!

Elan 511 - Tutorial

Part One: Trace, Cut and Assemble Cups

This tutorial is for Elan 511. Elan 511 has a partial, this tutorial can also apply to other partial band patterns. If you have read the Elan 645 tutorial, you'll notice that some of the instructions are the same - that's because some of the same things apply, especially to the cutting out process. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 32A, it seems that Elan 645 fit my daughter well in this size, so I am hoping for the same with this pattern.

Once you have your pattern and have found your size - this pattern includes the measuring instructions - find the pieces and trace them. You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces, so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch on the tricot. The tricot is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.


Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors - all the time, except for the rectangular bridge piece which is easily to cut with a rotary cutter.

You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW. You can use it layered with the tricot for back bands and lower cups, and you can use it under lace for a little more stability. If you're making a smaller size, you might not need as much structure, but it can be a good idea for the larger sizes. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or tricot depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet or tricot and the rectangle for the bridge in tricot.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace. As a side note regarding this particular pattern, the first two of these I've made, both in different sizes, I noticed that there was not as much coverage in the upper cup at the armhole side. Since this will be the third time sewing this pattern for me, I've add a little extra at the armhole side - this is now more like Elan 645. The new line is on the left and the original on the right - just a little extra triangle of fabric is all that is needed.


Place the upper edge of the pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side. Flip the pattern piece over to cut out the lace for the other side, aligning the pattern piece to have as close to a mirror image as you can get.

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments can not. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to consider the top edge finish. If you are just using stretch lace for the upper cup, then you have no finishing to do. If you are using the stretch lace over another fabric, you will need to attach the two fabrics together. To see how this is done, please check out this tutorial from Elan 645.

Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*. You can see lace sandwiched in between in the photo below.


Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened and pressed.

The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge and bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

Elan 511 Tutorial Starts Monday!

I apologize for not getting this tutorial posted sooner. Between clients and children's school vacation days due a teacher's convention, the tutorial is not quite ready. The first post is almost there and will be posted on Monday.

Elan 645 - Tutorial

Part Five - Wires, Straps and Closure

This is the last post for this particular pattern! These last few things not hard at all - if you've made it through the elastic and the channeling, this is a little bit easier.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine. I will have to say that I made the smallest pattern size available, a 32A and I did not have wires this small. I was able to steal wires from another bra my daughter had that was going to be retired anyway.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to.


The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".


2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.


3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.


4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.


That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.


Take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.


Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.

Bring the strap around to the back of the bra and line up the edge of the strap with the last unfinished edge of the back.


You can see this better from the wrong side:


Zigzag close to the edge of strap to attach it, then bar tack at the elastic. This is a stress point, so it is a good idea to make it secure.



The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.


You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on.


You're done!


As a side note: I was not sure of the fit of this size for my daughter, but when she said that the other cups were not covering as much any more and the bands were too tight, I was pretty sure this would work. Once she tried it on and we adjusted the back and straps properly it fit right, she said it was comfortable. She did a wear test all day today and said it was "Wonderful." It fits just like the old ones, but just a bigger size.