Hooks and Wires

2011-09-23T03:37:00.000-07:00

New Colors!

I have a few new colors for fall; three are shown below all ready to go and the other two will be done in the next few weeks. There is Jade Green (a little darker than photo), Maple Sugar, and Teal. All of these colors can be made darker or lighter, so those varieties might show up in the shop over the next few months.

There will be a change in the size of elastics in the kits, due to supply issues higher up in the chain. An elastic manufacturer is now out of business, making it harder for my suppliers to get the raw materials. For the moment, the wider elastic kits will have 5/8" straps/rings/sliders instead of the 3/4". The teal kit shown is the last kit with 3/4" elastic; I might have some in black for a black kit, but I haven't checked yet. The regular elastic kits will continue to have 1/2" straps/rings/sliders until those supplies run out. At that time, I will be switching over to 3/8" for those kits.

2011-08-10T02:51:00.001-07:00

On Vacation!

I will be on vacation today through Monday, Aug. 21, 2011. The shop is in vacation mode, but will reopen when I get back.

2011-05-31T04:49:00.000-07:00

One Unusual Kit and a Few Normal Ones

There are a few more kits in the Etsy shop - what you'd expect for late spring and early summer - Carnation Pink, Pale Powder Blue, Spring Green and then one unusual one.

I do try to rotate through the colors that I dye seasonally and try to use them all within reason. Some of the colors that don't dye so well are at the back of shelf, so when I pulled out Chocolate Brown from the back of shelf I should have remembered that this dye was a bit unusual. Yep, this is what I got:

I was hoping for a soft fawn-colored brown and instead, had to over dye with the same color it really deep and ended up with one of the most unusually colored kits I have ever dyed! You can never predict exactly how the components will absorb the dye and this one is no exception. Some pieces have a deep denim blue/grey color to them, others have almost a purple sheen and still others have some antique bronze, almost a chocolate brown color. I couldn't duplicate this if I tried! At any rate, I'm going to discount this one just for fun - it might make a good "try it out" sort of kit if you're new to bra making.

2011-05-10T16:32:00.000-07:00

New Kits on Etsy!

All the new kits are on Etsy! There is Pale Iris, Pale Raspberry, Blush Pink and more.

A few notes about these kits, though, the solid fabric is *TWO* way stretch, not the one way stretch I normally use. I did not discover this until all the fabric was cut and batched and a set was already dyed! I've noted this in the product description. Sigh. The powernet is also a bit lighter than I'd like - you can use two layers or use a layer underneath the solid fabric. I am hoping to get this fabric issue sorted out before the next batch - I've not had this much trouble with sourcing fabric until recently!

2011-05-07T04:20:00.000-07:00

More Kits!

A Few Now, More By Monday

Here are a couple new kits in the shop, there will be more by Monday evening or Tuesday morning. These two have the wider elastics and are Grey Mist and Powder Blue. These would be great as a mix and match if you buy both kits. I also have one more wider elastic kit, Deep Sangria in the dye bath right now!

BTW, the Mochachino kit on Etsy has been reduced to $10.00, and that's a bra and panty kit! It has been around too long and needs to move. If you're looking for a bargain kit to try out making your own piece, then this is the kit to try.

2011-03-11T07:03:00.000-08:00

Just a Couple of Spring Kits

Here are a few new spring kits that I've listed in the shop on Etsy! I will be making some more in the month or so in spring and summer colors.

These four are two-tone kits and not by intention. I used a different source for the stretch satin and it isn't the same as what I get from my other supplier! It doesn't dye well at all! The reason is that there is too much poly in it and not enough nylon. Polyester takes a completely different dye and process than does nylon, which is yet again different from dyeing cottons or plant fibers.

Yes, that yellow is really, really bright. It is called Daffodil Yellow for a reason! The Pale Lilac is a bit too streaky and the price on that has been reduced a bit, too.

2011-01-24T04:49:00.000-08:00

More New Kits, All Sale Priced!

The sale prices are still good until Jan. 31, 2011, so I've made up some more new kits, there are three black ones in the Etsy shop, plus all the colored ones you see below. I know it is the middle of winter and we could all do with a touch of Spring, so most of these colors are pretty spring colors. There's Pale Iris, Pale Wedgewood Blue, Spring Green, Pale Sea Breeze, Soft Pink and Ivory (this one dyed up really nicely into a two tone all by itself!). I also dyed up a red - great for Valentine's Day coming up. Any of these would look nice combined with a black kit, but I think a fun combination would be the Pale Sea Breeze and the Spring Green. The back row all have the wider elastics (5/8" bottom finishing elastic; 3/4" strap elastic, rings and/or sliders), and the front row have the regular elastics.

All packed and ready to ship!

2011-01-14T05:12:00.000-08:00

Some New Kits Available and Sale!

The number of available kits in the Etsy shop was getting sort of low, so I've dyed some additional kits. Now available in wider elastics (5/8" lower finishing elastic, and 3/4" strap elastics and rings and/or sliders) is Charcoal Grey, Lilac and Coral Pink. In the regular elastics (1/2" elastics for lower finishing and straps) is Twilight Blue and Pale Golden Wheat.

The Charcoal Grey and Lilac work really well together and would make nice mix and match pieces or combine the two sets for a matching top and bottom.

The Pale Golden Wheat coordinates nicely with many of the currently available colors (shown below from left to right are Mochachino, Deep Terracotta Rose, Coral Pink and Twilight Blue):

I've even made up a singular mix and match kit, Deep Terracotta Rose and Nude. Some of the components are commerically dyed (as you can see they don't quite match; now you know why I dye kits!), but there is enough to mix and match for a unique garment, plus there is a bonus piece of wide lace to play with:

From now until midnight on Jan. 31, 2011, all kits in the shop are $5.00 off! That means, most kits are now $10.00. For some of you, that means free shipping! It doesn't matter how many kits you buy, each one is $5.00 off. The prices have already been changed in Etsy to reflect the sale. If you custom order a kit in any color that I dye, you will get $5.00 off of those kits, too! Enjoy!

2010-11-15T11:11:00.000-08:00

New Fall/Winter Colors

I noticed my stock of kits was way down and decided to get some new colors at the same time. You can see all the new colors in the photo below. There is a Twilight Blue, a deep blue that has a bit of teal to it rather than grey like Wedgewood Blue; there is a Chocolate Brown (more on that below), a Charcoal Grey, Sangria, a really pretty deep wine color, and a Royal Blue, which is less bright than the photo and less bright than the 80's Electric Blue color.

All of these colors would work nicely with white or beige for a two toned effect, as well as with the Pale Pink kit, currently on Etsy. Here is the Chocolate Brown and Charcoal Grey with the Pale Pink lace:

All of these colors dyed up nicely for the most part. The Chocolate Brown was a bit streaky and parts of the components dyed up a denim blue color. I'm not sure if I want to dye up this color again. It was a strange dye job, too. The fabrics absorbed all of the purple dyes first, then they absorbed all the yellows to make a brown. It was a little fascinating and a little worrisome to watch!

The Charcoal Grey had a bit of mottling, too. Then I discovered a flaw in the lace. There are some small holes half way between the scalloped borders that I didn't see until the lace was dyed. I checked the other pieces and they're fine. That's a little bit of a bummer because this lace is wider than my usual lace - almost 5" wide (see lace comparison photo below) and is part of a few kits with wider elastics.

The wider elastic kits (5/8" bottom finishing elastic and 3/4" straps, rings and sliders) available now are: Charcoal Grey, Sangria and Twilight Blue. Chocolate Brown and Royal Blue have the regular sized elastics (1/2" bottom finishing elastic and 1/2" straps, rings and sliders). They are already in the Etsy shop with the Charcoal Grey and Choc. Brown being sold at a discount.

2010-08-31T04:07:00.000-07:00

A Couple New Kits

I wanted to dye up a couple of kits in some deeper colors for the shop, so I chose a Deep Watermelon Red and a Deep Terracotta Rose. Both kits have the patterned powernet, the last of the piece I had, and the red kit has the last piece of lace from NYC. They both dyed up beautifully and will coordinate well with the current Soft Pink and Golden Vanilla Kits for mix and match fun.

Deep Watermelon Red:

Deep Terracotta Rose:

2010-08-24T14:51:00.000-07:00

A Few New Kits!

It's been a very busy summer, which means there has been less time for dyeing kits! I hope that I'll be able to get the stock back up in the Etsy shop this fall when the children go back school. In the meanwhile, I've dyed up Golden Vanilla, Soft Pink and Pale Lilac. I've got a Wedgewood Blue in the dye pot right now, too, and a Pale Iris going into the pot tomorrow morning.

Both the Golden Vanilla and Soft Pink have some pretty lace that I picked up in NYC last time I was there. I only bought enough for two kits, and these are the ones. I will definitely buy more of this lace - it dyed up nicely and some parts have a nice sheen, while other are more matte, making for an interesting lace.

The Wedgewood Blue and Pale Iris kits will have some new powernet that I got in that has a pattern. I only bought a small amount, so this will only be in four kits that I dye. This is how it looks in white, before dyeing, and should be interesting to work with for back bands and even overlays.

The Pale Lilac, sadly (for me, but good for you!), has a few small flaws that can be cut around:

This is a gorgeous color, but I'm going to have to offer this kit at a discount due to the flaws. If you want this kit, it will be $10, plus $5 for Priority Shipping or $3.00 for 1st class shipping. Please email me at summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com and we'll get everything set and the kit into the mail.

2010-07-01T05:07:00.000-07:00

Some Bigger Kits

I've dyed up a couple of bra/panty kit combos and put those in the shop since I haven't done those in a while. That puts me out of stock on panty lace/elastic, but I can always get more!

First, a color I haven't done in a while, Mochachino. Note that there are two different kinds of panty elastic for this kit: standard elastic and a 1" wide stretch lace. There is also a 36" x approx. 24" cut of the satin; this is double the amount I'd put in a bra only kit.

There is one small flaw in the center of the satin yardage, but it is very small and easily cut around. Just thought I'd let you know that up front.

Then there is a Super Kit - this one is really fun for mix and match opportunities. This one is a black, white and fuchsia combo. This kit has *almost* everything for 3 bras or for a bra/panty combo or maybe a few of each, depending on the size you're making. The only things this kit does not come with fuchsia fabrics (I found some wide white stretch lace, but it isn't shown). It *will* ship with 3 pair of wires.

Lastly, and not for sale in Etsy I do have some hand painted fabrics. I'm not sure that I like them as well as I thought, but if you like them, I'd be happy to dye up matching elastics/findings to go with them. The satin is muted compared to the powernet, and is a generous 36" x approx. 24" cut; twice what I put in the regular bra kits. If you want this as a bra/panty kit, panty elastic will be on order (as will be a wire size or two I'm out of).

Email me if you'd like the painted fabrics or put together as a kit: summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com.

One last thing, I will be unavailable to ship kits on Friday and Saturday. Any kits ordered will be out first thing Monday or Tuesday (after I get your wire size!) or whenever the Post Office is accepting mail after the 4th of July holiday.

2010-06-29T14:52:00.000-07:00

Four More New Kits!

I was able to get a few kits dyed up over the last few days and into the Etsy store. There is Honey Gold and Light Desert Rose Pink:

Also available is Summer Sky Blue and Succulent Green/Silvery Blue:

A few words about the Succulent Green. I haven't had much luck with this dye - it doesn't dye up the way I think it will. This is the second time I've used it and I've had the same results both times - some of the fabrics take the blue component of the dye really well, but not the yellow so some parts are a blue tinge, while others are green. It's not ugly, it's a rather lovely combination, and sometimes you get those unexpected things happen when dyeing!

2010-06-28T05:26:00.000-07:00

A Few New Kits, One Discounted!

I am finally able to get back to dyeing kits after a long break due to end of school and vacation. There is only one new kit on Etsy today, but I will adding kits during the week. (If I get my supplies today, there will be new ones as early as tomorrow!). Here's the first kit available, Pale Wedgewood, a lovely pale blue color:

Up for discount, at $10.00 for the kit and $5.00 for Priority shipping is a Pale Lilac. The only flaw with the kit is some strange raspberry markings on the powernet, as seen below. All the other pieces dyed fine and you could probably cut around the flaws, use the powernet under the lace or not at all.

If you'd like the Pale Lilac kit, please email me at summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com and we'll arrange for shipping.

2010-04-01T07:22:00.000-07:00

New Colors!

The new kits colors are in the Etsy shop now! I've got seven new colors and I think in the future I'll be able to get some lighter and darker variations of some of these new colors.

First, we have two new bright colors, Brilliant Blue and 80's Fuchsia.

Yes, the fuchsia is just that bright, but either color will look great paired with the Just Black kit:

Next we have what was called Straw, but it looks more like Golden Vanilla to me. Besides, Golden Vanilla sounds nicer than Straw. As you can see, this color is lovely by itself or combined with Wedgewood Blue, Herb Green (HG has a slight blue tinge, too, makes for an interesting color) or Desert Rose.

BTW, the Wedgewood Blue kit has wider elastics for the bottom elastic (5/8" instead of 1/2") and for the straps (3/4" instead of 1/2"), plus the larger rings and sliders.

I've also dyed up a color I'm going to call Shell Pink. This dye is actually labeled French Vanilla, but came out this pretty pale pink color. This is actually the color I thought I was going to get with Lobster Bisque, so I'm glad I finally have a dye for this color. As you can see it would combine well with either the Herb Green or the Desert Rose kits. You can see that blue tinge to the Herb Green better in this photo.

This month sometime I plan to do some hand painted kits. I've always wanted to try that, and I think it might make for some interesting final products.

2010-03-29T16:22:00.000-07:00

Coming Soon!

New colors should be in the shop by the end of the week! I've already dyed up three of the seven, but still need to dry, sort and fold the kits contents.

The new colors include: Brilliant Blue (very bright!), Wedgewood Blue, Straw (renaming that one!), French Vanilla, Herb Green, Raspberry and Terracotta.

2010-03-27T14:11:00.000-07:00

Elan 530 - Tutorial - Part Four

Straps and Finishing

There are only three more things to finish before it is wearable: straps, wires and back closure.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to. After closing the channeling, trim the excess channeling above the edge of the cup.

The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. There are two options for straps with this pattern. One type of strap is a partial elastic strap with the other part being made of the solid fabric. The other type is a full elastic strap. In either case, you will need to make elastic straps. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".

2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.

3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.

4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.

That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.

If making full elastic straps, take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.

Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.

For the partial elastic straps, you will also need to make the fabric portion of the strap. After interfacing the fabric sections, fold the strap piece right sides together the long way and stitch on the long curved side. Turn the strap piece right side out and press.

The strap is attached to the front at the corner of the cup where the elastic stops.

Then attach the other end of the fabric strap to the elastic strap through the ring and stitch securely, bar tacking to make sure it is strong and secure.

For either strap version, the straps are attached to the back band the same way. Bring the strap around to the back of the bra and line up the edge of the strap with the last unfinished edge of the back.

Zigzag close to the edge of strap to attach it, then bar tack at the elastic. This is a stress point, so it is a good idea to make it secure.

The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.

You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on!

You're done! As a side note, this does look better on a body than on my dressform - my dressform is a little bigger than my daughter in the band, but smaller in cups!

2010-03-26T11:07:00.000-07:00

Elan 530 - Tutorial - Part Three

Channeling and Upper Elastic

Once the bridge and back bands are applied, the channeling can be added. Fold the bridge and the cup so that they are right sides together with the cup. The channeling is then applied with the seam of the channeling lined up with the two previous (bridge and band) seam lines. Make sure that the folded edge of the channeling is facing away from the cup and other fabrics at this point.

Make sure to stop stitching the channeling about 1/2" from the armhole edge so that the elastic will be easier to apply in the next step - the pin on the far left that is perpendicular to the channeling is my mark for stopping. You can trim away the channeling about 1/2" away from the armhole edge, too.

Stitch the channeling in place along the seam line of the channeling. When done and unpinned, it will look like this:

Fold the channeling to the inside of the cup and topstitch the folded edge of the channeling down.

To finish the top edge, 3/8" elastic is applied. This elastic is applied in the same way as the bottom elastic from the previous post, with two passes of zigzag stitching. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to the 80% of the top edge measurement, plus 1" extra if using full elastic straps. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to optionally leave 1" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.

Almost done - all that is left is straps and finishing, which is the next tutorial!

2010-03-25T16:12:00.000-07:00

Elan 530 - Tutorial - Part Two

Bridge and Back Band

To prepare the bridge, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the bridge. Fold the bridge, right sides together, and stitch the raw edges at the top together.

Turn the bridge right side out, and press.

With right sides together, stitch each diagonal edge to the cups, aligning the top of the bridge with the top of the cup. Bridge width can vary. If you have a bra that has a bridge with a good width for you, then trim the bridge to the same width before stitching. If not, just baste both sides so that you can adjust the width later.

Stitch one side, and then stitch the other side of the bridge to the other cup.

To prepare the back bands for attachment, the bottom elastic will need to be sewn on. Cut a piece of elastic 80% of the measurement of the bottom of the back band. Place the elastic on the band with the plush side up on the right side of the band, and the straight edges together as shown below. The elastic will be smaller than the back band, so you will need quarter mark both the elastic and the band and then pin the elastic to the band matching the marks. To quarter mark, fold the item in half and mark the half way point. Then, with the item still folded in half, fold it in half again and mark the two positions between the half way point and then ends.

The elastic will be stitched on in two passes. First, stitch close to the loop edge with a small zigzag. You will need to stretch the elastic as you sew it. Be careful not to stretch the band, too, as your band will then be out of shape permanently. This can be a bit tricky because the band is a stretchy fabric too! Be patient and sew slowly, stretching from pin to pin. This is what the stitching will look like:

Then turn the elastic to wrong side of the band and stitch with a zigzag close to the straight edge of the elastic. You will be stitching with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. If you are basting this together for a try on, you can use a long straight stitch for the first pass, and a wide zigzag for the second pass.

This is what it looks like from the outside and inside:

Stitch the back bands to the cups, right sides together, aligning the marks and the top edge with the armhole edge of the cup.

Now we ready for the channeling and upper elastic, and you should have what looks like this:

Next Post: Channeling and upper elastic!

2010-03-24T13:19:00.000-07:00

Elan 530 Tutorial

Part One: Trace, Cut and Assemble Cups

This tutorial is for Elan 530. Elan 530 has a partial band and full coverage cups with optional partial self-fabric straps. If you have read the Elan 511 tutorial, you'll notice that some of the instructions are the same - that's because some of the same things apply, especially to the cutting out process. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 34A.

Once you have your pattern and have found your size, find the pieces and trace them. You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces, so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch of the fabric. The fabric in my kits is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.

Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors.

You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW or under lace for a really pretty back band. Elan 530 does not have a lace option, so the back band is a nice place to use the lace. The upper cups can have some lace if desired, just by overlaying the lace on the upper cup pieces, as you'll see in the tutorial. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or solid fabric depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet, lace or solid fabric and the rectangle for the bridge in solid fabric. I also cut out interfacing for the bridge and the optional straps. The upper cup facing strip can be cut of fusible web as per the pattern instructions.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace if you're using it for the cups or band. Place the upper edge of the cup pattern pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side. Flip the pattern piece over to cut out the lace for the other side, aligning the pattern piece to have as close to a mirror image as you can get.

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments are a little different. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to finish the top edge. The top edge is finished with a strip that has fusible web applied to it. The strip is actually cut as one, but will be cut in two lengthwise to produce a strip for each side.

Each strip is stitched to the top edge of the top cut piece, turning the strip to the inside and fusing in place.

If using lace, overlap the lace on the upper cup sections and pin or baste in place.

Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*. You can see lace sandwiched in between in the photo below.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened, pressed and the center seam top stitched if desired. This is the cup from the inside, notice how the seam allowances are hidden:

The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge and bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

2010-03-23T09:49:00.000-07:00

New Tutorial!

Tomorrow I will start posting a tutorial for Elan 530. This pattern is very similar to Elan 511, in that it is a partial band bra; different in that it has full coverage cups and optional partial self fabric straps.

2010-03-04T15:34:00.000-08:00

Patterns Back In Stock and a New Style!

I just received a small order of Elan patterns, so they are back in stock in the Etsy store, both #511 with a partial band and #645 with a full band.

I've also ordered and now have in stock style #530, which has a partial band and optional self fabric straps. The size range is from 32B through 40DD.

2010-02-25T14:07:00.001-08:00

A Few More Kits

Here are two more new kits in the shop, Perfect Red and Rose Pink:

The red is absolutely gorgeous and I was very, very tempted to keep it for myself. I can always dye myself a kit any time, so it's better just to share!

The pink kit is a little different from my usual kits in that it has a non-stretch lace. I've always put stretch lace in the kits, but I thought I'd try this one as someone might actually prefer a non-stretch lace.

Both of these would make beautiful items combined with the Just Black kit that is available.

BTW, that special tie dyed kit sold! If you liked that one and would like more of that style - I'm actually thinking of hand painting a few kits just for fun - let me know!

I'll be taking inventory and ordering new supplies tomorrow. I've already got some new lace on the way, and I'll show you that when I get it. If you have a request for custom kits with wider elastics or in a color that has previously sold, just let me know! Email me: summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com!

2010-02-24T08:56:00.001-08:00

New Kits in the Shop!

I just listed some new kits in the Etsy shop, and will list a couple more at the end of the week. There is a Soft Yellow, a Pale Iris (a favorite purple from last summer), Just Black, a Deep Bronze, which turned out really nice, although I thought I was going to get a Milk Chocolate:

I've also listed a double kit in a Peachy Pink and Black:

Lastly, I've listed an Amethyst kit, which is a bit unusual. Normally, I *don't* want mottled or streaky fabrics. I sell those kits at a discount and am happy that some one will use them for practice or cut around the not so great areas. This time, I've got a kit with purposeful color variations - very much like the hand dyed quilt fabrics that are mottled in the same way (Check out fabric dye artist VickiW's hand dyed cottons in her Etsy shop!). If you want a really unique kit and really like those sorts of fabrics for quilts and other crafts, this kit is for you - you can have artisan style fabrics inside and out! Check out the coloration, *everything* has this coloration to it:

Look for some shade of pink and some shade of red later this week. I never know what I'll call them until they're out of the dye and dry!

2010-02-10T15:18:00.000-08:00

Bargain Kit Available - Light Cantaloupe or Orange Sherbet

Kit Has Been Sold!!!

I've got a kit that is not quite perfect available. The liquid satin is a bit mottled, it isn't too bad, and I didn't notice it when folding it. When I went to photograph it under different lights, the flaw became apparent. The color is a nice soft light cantaloupe or orange sherbet color.

If you'd like this kit, it is $10.00, plus $5.00 for Priority mail shipping. Please email at summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com, and I'll send you an invoice via Paypal.

Kit Has Been Sold!!!

2010-02-10T02:43:00.000-08:00

New on Etsy!

I've got some new kits on Etsy - in some really lovely colors and a great double kit in Bright Pink and Black. All of these kits have the new 7" wide lace, too! Here are a few of the new kits:

Coffee Ice Cream:

Hot Coral Red:

Deep Amethyst:

2010-02-02T10:44:00.000-08:00

New Lace!

I was able to purchase some new lace last week and it arrived this week. This one happens to be very wide, at about 7" wide, and can be used in a variety of ways if you're creative.

I just received more supplies today in the mail, so new kits should be ready and on Etsy by the middle of next week!

2010-01-28T08:36:00.000-08:00

Reader Question

From an anonymous reader: "When you have the multiple patterns listed again, would you be able to talk about the differences between them? I'm at the very lowest end of the size range, and was wondering which would be more likely to be flattering and fit."

I have both Elan 645 and Elan 511 available right now, which are good examples of the two basic band styles of bras. This is Elan 645, a full band bra. Note that the band goes completely under the cups:

This is Elan 511, a partial band bra. Note that the band stops at the wire line of the cup, the band does not continue under the cup and that the cups are connected at center front with a rectangle of fabric

As far as differences between the two styles, aside from the visual ones that I've already pointed out, there is a bit of construction difference concerning the attachment of the bands and bottom elastic and concerning which direction the wire channeling is turned and stitched (this detail is not shown in the pattern cover art).

I have made both of these patterns in various sizes, in the smallest size available, a medium size and one of the largest sizes. The tutorials on this blog for both Elan 645 and Elan 511 were made in the smaller sizes for each pattern, I believe I made 32A or 34A. Both were for my daughter, so they were fitted to and worn by a real person, and can be seen below.

If you're making a smaller size, you do not have some of the concerns of support that the larger sizes do. Both styles were equally flattering in the smaller size and fit fairly well with the only adjustments being made to the band. Either style is suitable, and would depend on your preference.

As far as fit, with any clothing item made at home, there is almost always some fine tuning that will need to be done to make it fit correctly. I have found that the fit of Elan patterns is consistent from style to style regardless of size, so if you make a 34A in one style, it fits the same in another style.

There are merits for either pattern, for pure looks and ease of fitting, I'd pick Elan 511. It needs wires and I'll be honest, I don't carry wires that small in the right style. That pattern needs a demi wire in those really small sizes. I had to steal wires from an old bra of my daughter's that we were retiring to get the wires. Elan 645 has merits in that the cups can be made in a non-stretch fabric, and can be made without wires. Many smaller sizes do not want a wire, and this pattern will work without the wires.

I hope that helps a bit for those of you who have a smaller size, yet want something pretty that doesn't look like a trainer for a 10 year old.

2010-01-27T05:38:00.001-08:00

A Few More Kits

All of the newest kits (Sunshine Yellow, Light Tangerine and Apple Green) are gone. Here are the next three, already on Etsy.

Deep Sea Breeze - an old favorite:

Amethyst - this is a gorgeous shade of purple! It is more beautiful in real life, and for me to say that is huge. If you know me, you know I am not a "purple person".

Valentine Pink - a nice deep pink, perfect for Valentine's Day!

I'm thinking of doing a few two tone kits in the next couple of days. Don't forget, if you've seen a color you like and the kit has already sold, just email me: summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com. I'm more than happy to dye one up for you and sell it privately.

Tomorrow: A post regarding bra styles, as requested by a reader.

2010-01-26T10:07:00.000-08:00

An Apple Today for Someone!

**Kit Has Been Purchased!**

I was dyeing those citrus sort of colors yesterday and decided to dye an Apple Green, too.

The only problem with this green is that the powernet did not come out as nicely as I'd like it to have. It has picked up some blue and a little orange dye faintly in spots. The good thing is that for the most part, these odd colors are only visible on one side of the powernet. Still it isn't quite good enough for the shop.

If you'd like this kit at the discounted price of $10.00 for the kit plus $5.00 for Priority shipping, please email me: summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com.

**Kit Has Been Purchased!**

2010-01-26T07:00:00.000-08:00

By Request:

Sunshine Yellow and Light Tangerine!

I had a request for these two colors, so they were the first two I dyed up for this latest group of kits. I certainly can use a little color pick-me-up at this time of year, too! First, Sunshine Yellow:

Second, Light Tangerine:

I wasn't so sure I'd get a tangerine color, as it took a little mixing of dye powders. There is always a little mystery when dyeing fabrics as you can't always be 100% sure of the final color, especially when mixing your own colors. I'm actually pretty happy with the color and I hope one of you will be, too! These kits will be in the Etsy store tomorrow morning!

BTW, the new solid fabric, the liquid satin 1 way stretch spandex, is beautiful! It takes dyes beautifully and is more substantial than the tricot.

In the pot right now, a really pretty purple!

2010-01-20T12:55:00.000-08:00

Good News!

Almost all the kits in the Etsy store have sold, except for the Blush Pink one. That means that I'll be dyeing up new kits next week and getting them into the shop! I'll be dyeing up a variety of colors including some of the ones I had last summer. If there's anything you'd like to see let me know in the comments.

I am upgrading the fabric in the kits, so all new kits will have the new fabric. I have been using 40 denier tricot, but have ordered up some liquid satin spandex to dye. I'll have the yardage in the next couple of days so I haven't seen it in yard form, but the samples I've seen are really nice. It is more substantial and thicker than the tricot. It is a one way stretch fabric, so it is suitable for all parts, depending on where you want stretch and where you don't. This is a more expensive fabric, but I think it will make nicer kits and nicer end products. I will not be increasing the price of the kits due to this, but cutting the fabric a little differently, as explained below.

I will also be cutting the yardage for at least the stretch satin differently. Rather than cutting narrow strips the width of the fabric, either 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 yards, I will be cutting more of what is known in the quilting world as a fat quarter. The pieces will be approx. 18 x approx. 26", which is an easier size to arrange the pattern pieces on. This gives you plenty of space in both the stretch and non-stretch directions to cut out a bra. I'm not sure whether I want to go to this method for the powernet or not at this point.

Last, but not least, I am going to open up shipping worldwide. Currently I only ship to the US and Canada, but the US Postal Service has made it a bit easier to deal with the customs forms and shipping online, so that's what I will be doing. All items will reflect the shipping change.

Stay tuned for new kits next week!

2010-01-13T13:30:00.000-08:00

A Few New Kits

After a couple of days of dyeing this week, I've listed a few more kits in the Etsy shop. This time I've dyed up: Blush Pink, Warm Nude, Light Violet and nice mix and match kit in Cranberry Red and Black. Read the listing carefully on that red/black kit as to what you will get! I did not dye the black, but I thought it would be nice to create a mix and match kit that would allow you create something in two colors.

2010-01-08T16:54:00.001-08:00

Another Flame Red Kit and Some New Laces

The first Flame Red kit in the Etsy shop is already gone, so I dyed up one more. So far, this is still my favorite color!

I also got some new lace samples this week and just ordered up some of the two shown below. These are stretch laces, but stiffer than some of the recent laces I've used for the kits. It should be interesting to see how they'll take the dye.

2010-01-07T14:19:00.000-08:00

My *Favorite* New Kit!

There are a few new kits in the Etsy shop: Caramel Latte, Victorian Mauve, and my absolute favorite, Flame Red! Go check it out - this red is really, really beautiful and I almost kept it for myself, but I can always dye up another one.

*Skim Mochachino Kit is Sold**

Meanwhile, the dye I have for the Mochachinos for some reason gives a slightly mottled result. I tried dyeing up a kit that I'm calling Skim Mochachino, and it turned out a bit mottled, too. Here's the color, a shade lighter than Caramel Latte:

I'm not happy with this color at all, so I will not be dyeing up any more of. I've got other colors that dye up nicely and are prettier. So, once again, my loss is your gain! I am offering this kit for $10.00, plus $5.00 for Priority Shipping and I'll even throw in an extra 3/8 yard of nude colored, commerically dyed powernet! If you would like this kit, just email me: summersetbanks "at" gmail.com.

*Skim Mochachino Kit is Sold**

2009-12-28T14:56:00.000-08:00

In Shop and Here, Too!

I've just listed the Antique Pink and Amethyst bra kits on Etsy. The Caramel Latte and Victorian Mauve sold before I could get them listed, so I will dye up those colors again in the next few days and get them on Etsy.

***Mochachino kit is sold!***

Meanwhile, I'm not 100% happy with the current kit of the Mochachino color, so I am going to offer that kit here at the reduced price of $10.00 for the kit, plus $5.00 shipping. The tricot came out a bit mottled - it is pretty much tone-on-tone, but is there if you look. The mottling appears as some darker streaks in the brown.

Please email me: summersetbanks@gmail.com if you are interested in the reduced priced Mochachino kit!

***Mochachino kit is sold!***

2009-12-17T15:04:00.001-08:00

More New Colors!

Some of these colors are very interesting - some of them turned out much differently than I thought!

First, there is what I'm going to call Victorian Mauve. The dye color is labeled Reddish Brown, but it looks more mauve in real life than this early photo:

The color actually coordinates really well with many of the pieces from the Antique Pink (Lobster Bisque) set:

I'm going to call this one Amethyst. This one is interesting in that not all the pieces dyed the exact same color even though they were all in the dye pot at the same time. I'll have to think about what to do with this set - I might combine it with some black findings and power net for a combination/mix and match kit.

The next two colors seem to coordinate well, too. The first one below is Mochachino, and is darker than this picture.

The photo below shows the color a little better, and shows this color compared to a lighter shade, that I'm going to call Caramel Latte.

Caramel Latte really is a nice caramel brown, more golden than the photo and does coordinate well with the Mochachino color.

Seems like there were a lot of browns and muted tones in this new lot of colors. I'm now craving some bright blues and greens - maybe for spring!

These new kits will be available in the next few weeks. I might even do some combination kits or kits with bonus pieces to mix and match.

2009-12-14T14:39:00.000-08:00

A Few New Colors

I've ordered some new dyes and here are a couple of the new colors for kits. I should be able to show a few more new colors in a few days. Depending on a few things, I plan to have new kits in stock ready for the new year.

The first new color was labeled Lobster Bisque. This doesn't look like lobster bisque to me at all, so I think I'll call this set Antique Pink. I was hoping for a pinky-peachy skin toned sort of color and I've ended up with an antique mauvey-pink. This is one of those kits where not everything dyed exactly the same shade, so this one has a two toned effect. I am going to try this color again and see how it looks in a paler shade.

This second new color I'm going to call Cranberry Red. It actually has a slight orange undertone, but is very pretty and very dark. I like this shade, so I'll probably dye at least one more set in this color.

Let me know what you think of these colors! I've still got a couple of deeper skin tone colors and a purple to try.

2009-12-10T10:11:00.000-08:00

Back In Stock!

I got more Elan 645's this week, so the White Kits with Elan 645 are back in the Etsy shop. I've also created a listing so that you can just purchase the pattern without any additional supplies, and set the shipping for $2.50 for first class mail to the US.

I've got one more new dye to try out tomorrow, and I'll show you a few new colors over the next week.

2009-11-19T04:23:00.000-08:00

Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Four

Straps and Finishing

This one is almost done, but there are three more things to finish before it is wearable: straps, wires and back closure.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to.

The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".

2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.

3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.

4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.

That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.

Take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.

Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.

Bring the strap around to the back and bar tack in place at the marks indicated on the pattern. If you're making this for a try on, just stitch across the strap several times with a regular stitch length. This is strong enough for a try on, yet easier to rip out than a bar tack.

The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.

You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on.

You're done!

2009-11-18T06:00:00.001-08:00

Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Three

Channeling and Upper Elastic

Once the bridge and back bands are applied, the channeling can be added. Fold the bridge and the cup so that they are right sides together with the cup.

The channeling is then applied with the seam of the channeling lined up with the two previous (bridge and band) seam lines. The folded edge of the channeling should face away from the cup and any fabric.

Make sure to stop the channeling about 1/2" from the armhole edge so that the elastic will be easier to apply in the next step.

Stitch the channeling in place along the seam line of the channeling.

Fold the channeling to the inside of the cup and topstitch the folded edge of the channeling down.

To finish the top edge, 3/8" elastic is applied. This elastic is applied in the same way as the bottom elastic from the previous post, with two passes of zigzag stitching. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to the same length as the top edge measurement. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to leave 1/2" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.

Almost done - all that is left is straps and finishing, which is the next tutorial!

2009-11-17T09:22:00.000-08:00

Elan 511 - Tutorial - Part Two

Bridge and Back Band

To prepare the bridge, fuse a 1"x3" strip of interfacing to the center of the bridge rectangle.

Fold the rectangle, right sides together, so that the longer edges are aligned and stitch.

Turn the rectangle right side out, center the seam at the back and press.

Mark in 1/2" from the ends along one side.

Trim off a triangle from either side, starting at one corner and ending at the marks.

*Note: As a matter of personal taste, I prefer not to gather the center of the bridge as shown in the pattern, so I leave mine plain. If you want to gather the center as per the pattern instructions, that is fine, it is up to you. Basically, gather the center of the bridge using a strong thread and then stitch along the center to keep the gathers in place.*

With right sides, together, stitch each diagonal edge to the cups, aligning the center of the bridge with the seam on the cup. Bridge width can vary. If you have a bra that has a bridge with a good width for you, then trim the bridge to the same width before stitching. If not, just baste both sides so that you can adjust the width later.

Here's what we have so far:

To prepare the back bands for attachment, the bottom elastic will need to be sewn on. Cut a piece of elastic the same measurement as the bottom of the band. Place the elastic on the band with the plush side up on the right side of the band, and the straight edges together as shown below.

The elastic will be stitched on in two passes. First, stitch close to the loop edge with a small zigzag.

Then turn the elastic to wrong side of the band and stitch with a zigzag close to the straight edge. If you are basting this together for a try on, you can use a long straight stitch for the first pass, and a wide zigzag for the second pass.

This is what it looks like from the outside:

Stitch the back bands to the cups, right sides together, aligning the marks and the top edge with the cup seam.

Now we ready for the channeling and upper elastic, which is the next post!

2009-11-16T16:17:00.001-08:00

Elan 511 - Tutorial

Part One: Trace, Cut and Assemble Cups

This tutorial is for Elan 511. Elan 511 has a partial, this tutorial can also apply to other partial band patterns. If you have read the Elan 645 tutorial, you'll notice that some of the instructions are the same - that's because some of the same things apply, especially to the cutting out process. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 32A, it seems that Elan 645 fit my daughter well in this size, so I am hoping for the same with this pattern.

Once you have your pattern and have found your size - this pattern includes the measuring instructions - find the pieces and trace them. You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces, so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch on the tricot. The tricot is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.

Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors - all the time, except for the rectangular bridge piece which is easily to cut with a rotary cutter.

You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW. You can use it layered with the tricot for back bands and lower cups, and you can use it under lace for a little more stability. If you're making a smaller size, you might not need as much structure, but it can be a good idea for the larger sizes. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or tricot depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet or tricot and the rectangle for the bridge in tricot.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace. As a side note regarding this particular pattern, the first two of these I've made, both in different sizes, I noticed that there was not as much coverage in the upper cup at the armhole side. Since this will be the third time sewing this pattern for me, I've add a little extra at the armhole side - this is now more like Elan 645. The new line is on the left and the original on the right - just a little extra triangle of fabric is all that is needed.

Place the upper edge of the pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side. Flip the pattern piece over to cut out the lace for the other side, aligning the pattern piece to have as close to a mirror image as you can get.

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments can not. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to consider the top edge finish. If you are just using stretch lace for the upper cup, then you have no finishing to do. If you are using the stretch lace over another fabric, you will need to attach the two fabrics together. To see how this is done, please check out this tutorial from Elan 645.

Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*. You can see lace sandwiched in between in the photo below.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened and pressed.

The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge and bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

2009-11-14T13:02:00.000-08:00

Elan 511 Tutorial Starts Monday!

I apologize for not getting this tutorial posted sooner. Between clients and children's school vacation days due a teacher's convention, the tutorial is not quite ready. The first post is almost there and will be posted on Monday.

2009-11-09T11:01:00.000-08:00

Elan 645 - Tutorial

Part Five - Wires, Straps and Closure

This is the last post for this particular pattern! These last few things not hard at all - if you've made it through the elastic and the channeling, this is a little bit easier.

Let's start with the wires. Insert the wires into the channels so that the white end of the wire is at the underarm and the end with the colored sparkles is at the center. In some cases, it will seem like the wire is a bit too long - do not worry, just shove it in. In the most careful way, of course. When you start to wear the final product the cups and channeling will stretch a bit and everything will fit just fine. I will have to say that I made the smallest pattern size available, a 32A and I did not have wires this small. I was able to steal wires from another bra my daughter had that was going to be retired anyway.

Once the wires are in, bar tack across the ends of the channeling on the bridge to close the channels. If this is only for a try on - you don't have to close the channeling. It will be just one less thing to rip out if you need to.

The next thing to make is the straps. The straps must be put on before the closure in this style. You will need to assemble the straps first. This can be a bit tricky, but I hope this series of photos will help.

1. Thread the strapping through a slider leaving a tail about 3/4".

2. Stitch down the tail so that the slider can not come off.

3. Thread the free end of the strap through a ring.

4. Bring the free end of the strap around to the left, toward the slider.

5. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider again and pull tight.

That's it, the strap is ready to be attached.

Take the ring and insert that little bit of elastic that you left at the top of the cup through it, bringing the elastic to the back.

Bar tack the elastic in place. If this is only for a try on - just stitch across the elastic a few times, you can even leave the tails of the thread so you can find it and clip it out if necessary.

Bring the strap around to the back of the bra and line up the edge of the strap with the last unfinished edge of the back.

You can see this better from the wrong side:

Zigzag close to the edge of strap to attach it, then bar tack at the elastic. This is a stress point, so it is a good idea to make it secure.

The final step is to add your closure. Check to see if the closure is the same width as the back. You might have to trim each section of the closure to fit. From the back, the hooks go on the section to your left. One end of the eyes opens up - just slip that over the raw edge of the back, with the fuzzy side (the side toward your body when wearing) down. The hooks go on the side to your right. Fold them in half, with the hooks facing down and attach like the eye section.

You can then either zigzag, satin stitch or baste it in place. If you're basting, use a regular stitch length. You don't want this coming loose during a try on.

You're done!

As a side note: I was not sure of the fit of this size for my daughter, but when she said that the other cups were not covering as much any more and the bands were too tight, I was pretty sure this would work. Once she tried it on and we adjusted the back and straps properly it fit right, she said it was comfortable. She did a wear test all day today and said it was "Wonderful." It fits just like the old ones, but just a bigger size.

2009-11-07T11:11:00.000-08:00

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Four

Elastics and Channeling

Actually, it is: elastic, channeling, elastic, in that order. You attach the bottom elastic, then the channeling, and then the top elastic.

The bottom elastic is the first elastic to be sewn in place. This elastic is usually the wider elastic, although some of the smaller sizes can use the 3/8". Otherwise, this elastic is 1/2" or wider. The application of this elastic is important in the proper fit because if the whole thing is not tight enough, there will not be the right support in the final product. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully!

Since I'm making the band with the seam under the cup, I'll be showing those instructions. Measure the bottom edge and then calculate 80% of that number. That is amount of elastic you'll need. Once you've cut that amount, fold it in half and mark the center.

Pin the center of the elastic to the center of the bridge and then pin from the center to the band seam on either side *without* stretching the elastic. Place the elastic with the plush side up on the right side of the fabric and the smooth edge with no picots aligned to the raw edge of the fabric. It is easy for me to remember: smooth edge to smooth edge.

Then pin from the seam to the end of the band. You will have to stretch the elastic to fit. The simplest way is to mark the remaining ends of elastic at the halfway point and the remaining band at the half way point and pin those.

The elastic will be stitched in place with two seams. If you are basting for a try on, use a long straight stitch for the first pass and a very wide zigzag for the second pass. If you're permanently sewing the elastic in place, use a small zigzag and stitch close to the picot (or looped) edge. Make sure that the needle is just on the edge of elastic when it swings to the left. I use a zigzag setting of 2.0 for width and length. Be careful to only stretch the elastic, but not the fashion fabric when sewing. It is very easy to do so, because the band is stretch, too!

Turn the elastic to the inside along the zigzag stitching and then stitch again using a zigzag stitch or multi-step zigzag close to the smooth edge of the elastic like you did on the first pass.

This is what the elastic will look liked from the inside when completely finished:

The seam elastic, as seen from the outside:

Now the bra is ready for channeling. The channeling is applied to the seam that joins the cups to the band. Working from the *cup* side of the seam, pin the channeling in place, with the seam on the channeling lining up with the seam joining the cups and band. It is fine to have excess at the top of the bridge - this can be trimmed away later. Leave 1/2" of space at the underarm edge. You will be applying elastic to that edge and it is easier to turn and stitch if you do not have to stitch through elastic and a double layer of channeling.

Stitch right along the stitching line of the channeling to attach the one side to the seam allowance. If you're stitching for a try-on, just use a long basting stitch for both sides of the channeling.

Turn the channeling and the seam toward the band, covering up the cup/band seam allowance. Now, top stitch the other edge of the channeling in place. Here is what it looks like from the inside and outside. Yes, you will be stitching over some of the band elastic. That's what you're supposed to do.

Now that the bottom elastic and channeling is in place, it is time to add the top elastic. This elastic is applied in the same way that bottom elastic is applied. Following the instructions, measure and cut the elastic (3/8" wide) to 80% of the length of the top edge measurement. Pin and sew as for the bottom elastic, except to leave 1/2" of elastic extra above the top edge of the lace. This will be part of the strap attachment.

Do not worry if your elastic does not look perfect on your first try. This is a skill that will improve over time and with practice.

This is what we have so far, almost done!

The next and final tutorial will be straps and finishing.

2009-11-06T04:47:00.000-08:00

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Three

Bridge and Band

Once the cups are completed the next steps are to prepare the bridge and band and then attach the cups.

The bridge itself does not need to stretch, so even though it is cut in the direction of least stretch, it still benefits from being interfaced with a non-stretch interfacing. Once interfaced and marked, the bridge is ready to be attached to both of the sides bands.

First the bridge pieces are placed right sides together. The band pieces are then sandwiched in between the bridge layers at the sides, just like how the cups were made. Like the cups, this will hide the seam allowances and make for a smoother inside.

The bridge pieces are then stitched together on both sides and along the top edge.

Once turned right side out, you will have the entire bridge/band unit:

Now the cups can be sewn to the band. Matching raw edges and notches, carefully pin the cups into place. The cup seam (between lace and solid) matches the notch closest to the center of the bridge. The bottom notch on the solid portion of the cup matches the notch on the band.
Since this is a very curved seam, take your time and use plenty of pins, then stitch.

Once both cups are in, this is what you will have, which is now ready for elastics, channeling and finishing:

Tomorrow's post: elastics and channeling!

2009-11-05T14:14:00.000-08:00

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part Two

Getting Ready, Sewing for Fitting, Cups

Once you have your pieces cut out, you are *almost* ready to begin sewing.

Before you begin, make sure you have the proper needle in your machine - one that will be able to sew stretch fabrics. This type of needle is different for every machine, but generally a stretch needle is the right one. You will be stitching a lot of elastic and stretch fabrics and the wrong needle will cause frustration every time. It is such a simple thing to fix, too!

The strange thing about bras is that unlike many other garments that can be fitted along the way, these garments can not. You just about have to have a completed garment before trying it on. Careful measurements help, but since every body is unique, you may have to adjust along the way. What I suggest doing, is doing what we do in regular garment sewing: baste! You can machine baste with a longer stitch before committing to permanently sewing the pieces together. You can also attach the elastics with a wide and long zigzag before making a commitment. It will be much easier to remove the stitching and adjust something rather than picking out little bitty stitches. Trust me, I've picked apart quite a few bras and it's no fun. As we progress, I'll show you both ways of stitching.

Cups:

To begin assembly, you will need to consider the top edge finish. If you are just using stretch lace for the upper cup, then you have no finishing to do. If you are using the stretch lace over another fabric, you will need to attach the two fabrics together. You can see the lace pinned in place below, and the notches marked in water soluble marking pen.

I use a small zigzag and stitch along the edge of the lace, following the curves.

After stitching, I trim away the excess fabric from behind the lace.

Now, matching the symbols and notches, stitch the lower and upper cups together. I like to line the bottom cups - this is why I cut out four of them - which also helps to hide the seam allowances and make the inside of the cups smooth. To do so, I place the upper and lower cups right sides together and then place the remaining lower cup piece face down, right sides together *with the other lower cup*.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins. These fabrics can be slippery and your seam allowance is only 1/4". Make sure everything is lined up properly.

I stitch my seams with a 2.6 stitch length for a permanent seam. If you're basting, use something larger, like 4.0 length. This is big enough to be easily removed, but small enough to hold the pieces together properly. Once the seam is stitched, the cups can be opened and pressed.

The cups are now ready for the next step: the bridge/bottom band. That's the next tutorial.

2009-11-02T13:36:00.000-08:00

Elan 645 Tutorial - Part One

Trace and Cut

We'll be starting with the tutorial for Elan 645. Elan 645 has a full band, so much of what will be covered in the tutorial can apply to any similar pattern with a full band. The sample shown in this tutorial will be a 32A, probably cut down a bit when we get to the fitting process. My daughter needs new bras, I need samples for tutorials and you need a tutorial - we all win!

Once you have your pattern and have found your size - remember that I emailed you regarding wire size, which is the same as the pattern size - you'll need to find the correct sized pattern pieces. They are grouped by band size. For this pattern there are two options: one, a partially stretch band and stretch cups and two, a band that is stretch only in the back with non-stretch cups. Which option you chose will decide which pattern pieces you'll need for the band. For this tutorial, I am making the stretch cup version.

You will need to trace off the pattern pieces - do not cut them out of the tissue! You or whoever you are making this for may change in size and you might need those other sizes some day. The seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces (hallelujah!), so all you have to do is trace. I just trace onto white tissue paper, the kind you'd use in gifts and gift bags. It is very easy to get and cheap. Make sure you mark all the dots, notches, direction of greatest stretch, and note the pattern number and size.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can then cut out the fabric. To cut out the pieces, first check the pattern pieces for the greatest direction of stretch - this is similar to a grain line in a woven. Similarly, strange things happen if you don't follow the correct line - things will stretch that you don't want to stretch and stretchy parts won't stretch at all!

Now, find the direction of greatest stretch on the tricot. The tricot is a one way stretch fabric, meaning that it will stretch in one direction but not in the other. The power net is a 4 way stretch, meaning that it stretches in practically any direction. In the first photo, the fabric stretches in the horizontal direction, but not in the vertical as you see in the second photo.

Following the direction of greatest stretch or grain lines on the pattern pieces, pin and cut. You may prefer to rotary cut the pieces, that's fine. I actually prefer to use scissors - all the time, except for rectangular piece which are easier to cut with a rotary cutter. You'll rarely see those in this type of sewing anyway.

You can use the power net for the back bands, as you've probably seen in RTW. You can use it layered with the tricot for back bands and lower cups, and you can use it under lace for a little more stability. If you're making a smaller size, you might not need as much structure, but it can be a good idea for the larger sizes. Take a look at RTW, just to get an idea of what fabric they are using in what places.

As a general rule, I cut two of the upper cups of the lace and the two of either powernet or tricot depending on the strength of the lace and whether I want a little sheerness. I cut 4 of the lower cup, and I'll show you how I use those to line the lower cup and hid the seam allowance in another post. I cut two of the back band in either powernet or tricot and two of the bridge in tricot.

The last thing you'll need to cut is the lace. Place the upper edge of the pattern piece along the scalloped edge of the lace and cut out one side.

Flip the lace piece over to cut out the other side. Use the scalloped edge of the already cut edge to locate a repeat so that you get a mirror image.

If you have a double scalloped lace, like I'm using for the sample, sometimes the opposite edge has a better mirror image.

Once cut and placed side by side, you can see that the lace motifs form a mirror image starting at the center.

The next installment will be on Thursday, starting with a few words about machine set up and then getting to make the cups!

2009-10-27T08:32:00.001-07:00

Elan #511

Elan #511 is different from #645 in that #511 is a partial band bra, while #645 is a full band bra. The fit is relatively the same, and again I've used some leftover supplies to make this bra.

Overall, I'm very happy with the fit of this one too, and I'd only make one small change to the next one I make. I would add just a little more to the side of the upper cup for a little more coverage at the underarm. This one is fine and I'll wear it as it, but in the next version I'll fix that. I just need to angle that side up a little more from the point where the solid meets the lace and out about 1" or so from the top edge when I cut out the lace, as shown in the red lines below.

The pattern is well written and I only changed one little thing - I did not gather the center front of the bridge. I can only see one potential issue with the pattern and that is how wide to make the bridge. That, of course, is personal to whoever will be wearing the final product. The piece that you cut out is plenty wide for a variety of sizes, but you'll need to size it for yourself. I was fortunate enough to have the #645 to compare the width of the bridge, and just made it that length. If you have a bridge that fits properly, then you can cut this one to the right length without a bit of basting and trial/error. I'll discuss this more in the tutorial for this style when we get there.

2009-10-22T10:10:00.000-07:00

Elan #645

First Impressions in Black and White

I've never used an Elan pattern, so I figured I should sew up the ones I have to check the instructions and fit so that the tutorials will be better. I started from scratch, retaking my measurements and ended up making a 34C, which I was hoping would fit, as some patterns I've sewn have been really close, good enough to wear, but not perfect. I was seriously surprised - this is the best fitting bra I've made by far!

I've used leftover fabrics and supplies from other projects, and was pleased with the outcome.

The fit is very good, with the band tight enough for good support and the bridge the right size so that it touches the chest wall like it should. The bridge is the part that isn't quite right on the other patterns I've tried. They've all been close and good enough, but not like this. You can see how close the channels are on the wrong side in the photo below:

I'm very pleased with this one and have high hopes for Elan #511. I will sewing up Elan #511 this weekend as a test so stay tuned for that one. After that I will sew up two more of each style so that I can document the step by step tutorials with extra tips.

2009-10-21T07:52:00.001-07:00

Beginner's Kits Available

At long last the beginner's kits are available!

The kits contain a pattern and a white kit. Regarding the colored kit portion, here's what I'm going to do: if you order a beginner kit, you may also order any other kit for free shipping and $5.00 off the colored kit price. The prices have been adjusted on Etsy and will be good through Nov. 1, 2009. This allows you to get a little discount for ordering both kits and lets you pick your color!

There are two kits for Elan #511 and Elan #645 and one kit for Elan #520. I am short on 3/8" finish elastic and should be getting that elastic within the next week to make more kits, and get them listed. If you see something you like and want to me to set something aside for you, just let me know!

I will start a sew along/tutorials for the patterns on Nov. 1. That should allow plenty of time for orders to be received. I have already made Elan #645 and really like it (I'll show you that tomorrow!) and am planning to make #511 over the weekend.

2009-10-16T14:27:00.001-07:00

I'm Back!

After a very long break, I am now able to put more attention towards the kits and this blog. The big news this week is that I finally got the Elan patterns for purchase! I hope to get something arranged for a package for beginners next week. Meanwhile, I will make up style #645 so that we can do a sew along or I can just post a step by step tutorial.

Here are the three styles of Elan that I will be offering (they have more styles, I just did not purchase them at this time). Carefully note the sizing for each one - they do not all come in the same size range.

Style #511 for sizes 32 A-D; 34 A-D; 36 A-DD; 38 B-DD; 40B-DD

Style #645 for sizes 32 A-D; 34 A-D; 36 A-DD; 38 B-DD; 40B-DD; 42 B-DD

Style #520 for sizes 42 C-FF; 44C-FF; 46 C-FF; 48 C-FF

Each pattern is similar to the Big 4 patterns in that the pieces are printed with multiple lines on tissue. You can either trace the pieces or cut them on the largest size and fold down to the correct size (you never know when you'll need those other sizes, so don't cut them off!).

I'll be back with more announcements next week!

2009-08-07T13:26:00.000-07:00

Basics

This post was orginially post on the Lingerie Sew Along blog, which is a private blog. The content was excellent, so I asked the original author, Tina of lingeriecrafter (do check out her blog - she makes some really lovely things!) if I could repost the information. She has graciously allowed me to post it here. I have added some information regarding supplies in blue type.

Bra terminology

To help our new members and also those who are not native English-speakers (I'm one too!) I thought I'd add a labeled bra diagram.

It took me ages to find a decent line drawing of a bra, but I finally got one from an Indian website. Unfortunately, the terminology there was different from what we use, so I'm just going to add labels here. (Please feel free to correct my usage, and I will make the necessary changes.)

This is a full-band bra with a three-piece cup. Note: A partial band bra will not have the band extending under the cups. There will smaller versions of piece #6, the bridge and #7, the wing that do not connect under the cups.

1. Bra strap attachment
2. Bra strap Straps can be made of bra strap elastic, which is usually plush on one side and shiny on the other - this is what I provide in the kits - usually the larger the size, the wider the strap. Non-stretch straps can be made from the same fabric as the bra for a little more support and no stretch. Straps also can be a combination of stretch/non-stretch so that there is a little give for wearing comfort.
3. Slider (for adjusting bra strap length) These come as pairs, and you'll need two sets for each bra. The ones in my kits are metal coated nylon, no plastic to possibly break, and of course the nylon will take dye.
4. Hook and eye closure Closures come in a variety of widths, but the main thing to note is that the larger the bra and wider the back band, the more hooks are needed. You can always trim down a back closure to a smaller number of hooks/eyes if you need to. The edges will not fray.
5. Bra cup. The number is exactly on the apex - the point furthest away from the body. Bra cups can be made from a variety of fabrics, but it best to follow the guidelines for the pattern you are using; some cups are stretch and some are not. The advantage of using a one way stretch fabric (like one-way stretch tricot) is that you can cut the sections that need stretch with the direction of stretch and those that do not in the direction in which there is no stretch. In general, larger cups sized pattern may not be drafted for stretch fabrics as a non-stretch or very low stretch cup will better support a larger figure.
6. Bridge This is the center section between the cups. It is almost always non-stretch. The bridge may be interfaced to give it strength. A small piece of fusible interfacing can be used, so if don't throw away little scraps!
7. Wing As noted below, some patterns have this piece combined with piece #9, so it might be cut with stretch. For larger sizes, this seam is an advantage because it is a place to add a small piece of boning for extra support.
8. Power bar or sling Not always used in all bras; nor will you find it in all patterns. This is an optional piece inside the cup which provides extra support, especially for the larger sizes.
9. Bra back This portion of the bra is usually cut with stretch and can be made of stretch fabric, powernet or other fabrics like lace or sheer with powernet underneath for support
10. Bra band elastic This elastic is plush on one side and smooth on the other. The plush side of course, makes wearing the bra comfortable. In general, larger size bras will use large widths of elastic. Since much of the support of a bra is in the band and cups (not straps!) then it makes sense to use elastic that is the correct size for the bra being made.
6+7+9+10 all together make up the bra band.
Many patterns have 7+9 as one piece.

The red line indicates the top edge of the bra, also called the neckline.
The blue line indicates where the underarm elastic is attached The underarm elastic, which continues on the back band toward the hook and eye closure is another plush back elastic, usually 3/8" in width, but for very large sizes, 1/2" might be more suitable.

I hope that this will help you if you are new to this type of sewing - it all seems a bit confusing at first because it is a whole new vocabulary and a whole new set of notions and fabrics. After a while, though, it gets easier, I promise.

2009-08-04T14:05:00.000-07:00

A Good Question!

Lydia asked a good question yesterday:

"Are the plans for the pattern kits still in the cards within the next two months?"

Yes! I plan to have those kits ready by September 15th. Now, that is if everything goes according to plan, which seems very likely. I might even have them ready sooner!

P.S. Lydia - please email me regarding your second question. I can't seem to find an email address for you!

2009-08-03T02:10:00.000-07:00

Shop is Reopened!

I am back from vacation and the Etsy shop has been reopened! I'll be continuing the Basics posts later this week.

2009-07-18T11:28:00.000-07:00

Vacation!

I will be on vacation for the next two weeks, and have decided to put the Etsy shop in vacation mode during that time. The shop will reopen Monday, Aug. 3. See you then!

2009-07-14T13:23:00.000-07:00

Three More Bra/Panty Combos

Here are the latest bra/panty combo kits to go up on Etsy:

Carnation Pink - The children and I had an interesting discussion over exactly what shade of pink this is. While princess, baby and rose were suggested, we felt that carnation was the best description of the color.

Sea Breeze - This is a standard color, just in a larger sized kit. I realized I didn't have any kits of this color and I felt like dyeing this color today.

Lemon Meringue Yellow - This is a really pretty yellow - it reminds me of the yellow dress we saw Michelle Obama wearing recently. It also reminds me of lemon meringue pie - yum!

These kits are $25.00, not the $30.00 previously stated. I went back through the accounting and realized I had made a mistake, so we both win - my accounting is fixed and your kit is a bit cheaper!

These will be last kits made until after I get back from vacation in August. The store will remain open while I am on vacation and I will be shipping during that time.

2009-07-11T10:14:00.001-07:00

Edit: 7/14/09 - Pink Grapefruit Kit is Sold! Removing that content.

First Bra/Panty Combo Kits

There's Only a Few At This Point!

I have found a few sources for panty elastic and am waiting for a shipment. There are many styles of panty elastic, so the kits may contain different types. The three main types that will be in the kits would be the regular picot edge panty elastic, designed specifically for that application, foldover elastic which dyes really well, and 3/8" plush back loop edge elastic, which finishes the edges the same as the edges on a bra.

Meanwhile, there are some new large bra kits and bra/panty combo kits in the store. I did buy a small amount of yardage in NYC, and was able to make a couple bra/panty combo kits in Lilac and Pale Apple. They are up in the store now!

I've got one kit that I am going to offer here for sale at a discount price because of some mottling during the dye process. While it is not completely terrible, I prefer to get as close to a solid shade as possible when dyeing - things are always 100% perfect, but close. This kit is a bra/panty kit, with 3/4 yard of both fabrics, all in one piece. The mottling is not as bad on these pieces, but it still there. Note a few things about this kit: 1. the back hook only has two hooks, not three, 2. the panty elastic is white 3/8" loop edge plush back, not colored, it just isn't shown in the photo. This is kit is $20.00 (regular price is $30.00) , plus $5.00 shipping, again, first come, first served. I am willing to overdye this kit to make a color called Tropical Punch if you'd like, just let me know. The color will be similar to Pink Grapefruit, but darker.

Please email me at summersetbanks "at" gmail "dot" com if you'd like the kit and I'll email you an invoice through Paypal.

The really good news is that I know what the problem is and can now make the bra and panty kits up to my standards. There will be more kits in the future!

2009-07-10T11:59:00.000-07:00

Basics

Sizes

Once you decide which pattern company you will purchase your pattern from, the next question is generally, "What size do I need to make?" Like RTW and patterns for sewing other garments, not everything is sized the same. Bra pattern sizes may be slightly different from company to company, so to start with you'll need your pattern instructions and some accurate measurements.

How do I measure?

All you need to measure is a reasonably well fitting bra (I realize some of you may not have a perfectly fitting bra, and that's why you're making one!) a flexible tape measure, a pen and something to write on. Measuring is best done with a helper - this doesn't have to be anyone experienced in sewing, their main purpose is to help you make sure that the tape measure is level and horizontal across your back when measuring, to help hold the tape measure and to write down numbers. Lacking a helper, you can use two mirrors to check the position of the tape measure in the back and a binder clip to hold that tape measure together in the front while you adjust the back.

What do I measure?

You'll only need two measurements to find your size. Each pattern company has its own set of directions for measuring and its own size charts, but they all follow the same general pattern. That pattern is to find the underbust measurement, which will help determine your band size and to find the overbust measurement and possibly the high bust measurement which will help determine cup size.

How do I measure the underbust?

While wearing your best fitting bra, loop the tape measure around yourself and measure around the body, underneath the bust making sure that the tape measure is level and horizontal across the back. Be sure that the tape measure is snug and not loose for this measurement. Do not exaggerate your posture or puff your chest out. The bottom band of the bra is a major player in the support system of the bra and you don't want a band that is too loose. If your pattern uses American sizes, jot this number down, and then follow the instructions in the pattern to find the band size. Usually you will add 4" or 5" to this measurement to come up with an even number. For example, if your under bust measurement is 33", you would add 5" to equal 38". This is the band size. By contrast, most European patterns do not do the the add 4" thing, your band size is the size you measure in cm.

How do I measure the overbust?

While wearing your best fitting bra, loop the tape measure around yourself and measure around the bust, across the fullest part of the bust, making sure the the tape measure is level and horizontal across the back. Do not pull the tape measure tight for this measurement. Measure comfortably, but not droopy loose, either. Write this number down. You will need this number to help determine cup size.

How do I determine cup size?

This measurement really is pattern specific and there are two or three general ways of doing this via American sized patterns - use the method in your pattern! Here are few ways to do this. One way is to subtract your band size from the overbust measurement and then determine the cup size from the difference; a difference of 1" equals an A, 2" equals a B, etc. For example, if your band measurement is 38" and your overbust measurement is 41" then you have a difference of 3" and your cup size is a C. Some patterns (like Kwik-Sew) will have you measure what is sometimes referred as the high bust measurement. This measurment is taken above the bustline, right at armpit level, with the measuring tape level and horizontal across the back, with a comfortable tension - not pulled tight. This high bust measurement is then subtracted from the overbust measurement and cup size is determined the same way; a difference of 1" is an A cup, etc.

Measuring is not hard, but it is essential to put you at the right starting point for fitting. If you can get a reasonably close fit, then it will take fewer adjustments to get you to a great fit. Like all sewn clothing, you have to have a starting point and fit from there. The measurements are only a tool to help you get the right fit.

2009-07-06T05:20:00.000-07:00

Update 7/06/09

Just a quick post to update you as to what is going on with the kits! I did get to go to NYC, but I was not able to visit all the stores that I wanted to. There was just too much too see in too little time. Because I did not get the all the supplies I wanted to in NYC, I ordered up more kit components and they should be here today. That means I can start dyeing kits tonight.

I am still on the hunt for panty elastic that is dyeable and at a good price. I have samples of two types, and I know one will not take the dye because it is mainly polyester. I am going to throw a length of the other elastic in the next dye batch and see what happens. Once I get the panty elastic, I'll start making bra/panty combo kits. These kits will contain all the supplies that the large kit contains, with a change to a larger cut of both fabrics - 3/4 yard each - and the addition of 3 yards of panty elastic. If I can not find a panty elastic that I like, then I could always put 3 yards of plush finish elastic in the kits for the panties as that is one way to finish the edges.

I am going to make some calls concerning patterns today, so I'll see how that goes. If it works out, I will make the pattern/2 bra kit available in August. I have two weeks of vacation at the end of July, so that project will need to be pushed out a little further.

Lastly, I did have enough supplies to dye up one Sea Breeze Large kit. It has the same lace as the Pistachio kits, and because it is thinner than I'd like for lace I've included extra power mesh in case you'd like to underline. That kit will be on Etsy by lunchtime today.

2009-06-29T14:29:00.000-07:00

Trip to NYC!

I am going to NYC tomorrow to shop in the garment district. I hope to find some really pretty new laces and pick up some more supplies. I'll be back to dyeing kits on Wednesday, so look for new kits in the store later this week.

2009-06-29T13:56:00.000-07:00

Basics - Part One

Patterns

To get started making anything, you'll need a pattern. There are many companies that make bra patterns both here in the US and abroad. Each pattern company uses sizes that are relevant to the country of origin. If you're using a Sewy pattern from Germany, then most likely you will be using metric sizing. If you're using an EZI-Sew pattern from New Zealand, then your pattern will have the type of sizing used in Australia and NZ. If you're from the US and have never used foreign patterns before this can be a bit confusing, especially for something that you've never sewn before. Since I am gearing this blog mainly towards the North American readers, I will recommend patterns with US sizing.

What patterns are avaible in US sizing?

There are three companies that I am aware of with US sizing: Kwik-Sew, Elan and Pin-Up Girls. Kwik-Sew and Elan are fairly easy to get - do a Google search for those, and they'll show up. You might even have a fabric store in your area that sells Kwik-Sew. To see styles (and purchase, too!) of both Elan and Kwik-Sew, you can either go to Sew Sassy or to Fabric Depot. The Pin-Up Girls patterns can be ordered from Bra Maker's Supply in Canada.

What kind of pattern should I buy?

Well, most importantly, it depends on your size and need for support. Most patterns are drafted for A through D cups, with or without wires and with a full band or partial band under the cups. Patterns in size ranges for DD cups and beyond usually have a full band only under the cups and wires. One major difference is the types of fabrics the pattern is drafted for. The larger the size, the more support is need from the cups and band. In these cases, the fabrics need to have no stretch or minimal stretch. For smaller sizes and styles, fabrics with more stretch is used and the patterns are drafted to allow for stretch in the cups. Beyond considerations for support - which is why you're wearing a bra in the first place - then the choice is yours for the look of the final product that you'd like. Don't forget that you can change the look of a basic pattern by placement of lace and other trims.

Now, I have a question for you. I *might* have an opportunity to make available a certain pattern line. I was thinking it would be nice to offer a bundled kit for those beginners who would like to give this whole idea a try. I would like to offer a beginner's kit with a pattern, a white kit (fabric/notions/wires) for use in making a muslin/trial bra, and then a colored kit (fabric/notions/wires) for making another pretty bra. You'd have everything you'd need except for the sewing machine and thread. In the end, you'll end up with at least one wearable bra, and maybe two if the white one works out! What do you think? Let me know in the comments!

2009-06-26T12:10:00.000-07:00

A Big "Thank You"!

Thank you all for the interest and well wishes! I wasn't sure if this idea would fly or not, but apparently there is some interest in such a product!

First, the winner of the giveaway kit:

h2omelyn

Congrats! H2omelyn, please email me at sbanks "at" metrocast "dot" net with your mailing address, kit size, color and wire size (bra size) so that I can get the right sized wires into the kit and get it into the mail to you quickly!

Second, I thought I would answer a few quick questions/comments today and then next week start a "Basics". The series will start with patterns and will focus primarily on those easily available in the US with American sizing.

Sorry if these topics seem random, but I took notes as I read through the comments, because I wanted to make sure some of these topics were addressed!

The Purple Iris bra shown yesterday is one that I made for my daughter with supplies dyed at the same time as the Purple Iris kits. It is a Merckwaerdigh, which is a Dutch pattern company. It has no wires and has the same lace as the Pale Pistachio kits.

I have thought about offering kits with coordinating colors. This is something I will explore in the future if things work out well and when I add new kit colors. Sea Breeze would be pretty combined with a Chocolate Brown, and I can see Cantaloupe combined with a pink, too.

One of the biggest questions was regarding panties or a combo bra/panty kit. I have also thought about offering this, too. To be honest, there is probably enough fabric in those kits to make matching panties. The tricot is 54" wide and the powernet is 45" wide. The trouble you'd run into is the matching panty elastic. I am going to see what I can find for panty elastics and stretch lace that will dye. I have some that I tried, but it didn't take the dye, so it must be polyester. Polyester will not take the dye used for nylon fibers. It certainly is something I'd like to offer, and could batch dye all the components for a perfect color match.

I hope that answers some of the questions!

2009-06-25T02:25:00.000-07:00

Grand Opening

Welcome to my newest blog and latest adventure!

So just why did I start the new blog and business? Well, I started making bras a few months ago and quickly discovered that in the US, there is not an easy way to obtain all the supplies necessary for one bra in matching colors except for white, beige, black and sometimes pink. While all those colors are necessary under certain colored garments - you know beige or white under white clothes - all little color once in a while is fun, too! I started dyeing my own components and then realized it would be really nice for everyone else to have these things too, as ready to sew kits with the sewer providing the pattern and thread.

I'm not exactly sure of the exact direction this blog will take, but for the moment it will be focused on my latest little hobby and business venture: hand dyed bra kits. I'll use this space for Etsy store announcements such as new colors or kits and for general product information regarding the dye process and kit components. This is also the place for your feedback. Are there colors you'd like to see? How about fabrics, notions, or the amount of supplies in a kit? This is place to talk about it. If you make something from a kit, I'll be happy to post a photo of it that you send me, too! I probably will only post here a few times per week, if all goes well.

To give you an idea of the colors I've dyed up for this first lot of kits, check out the photo below. There is deep rose, buttercup, cantaloupe, iris, sea breeze and pale pistachio.

I've sourced supplies, dyed all the components and opened an Etsy store to provide these colored kits at a reasonable price. Small kits are best for A and B cups and cost $15.00, while large kits are best for C and D cups and cost $20.00. The larger kits provide more materials and if you're a small size, a large kit might give you two bras, with the addition of a few extra supplies you provide. Shipping is $5.00 for US Priority Mail shipping and will ship up to three kits to the US, and $13.00 for up to three kits to Canada. For right now, I'm only shipping to North America to keep things simple.

Here's an example of what you can make with a kit, this is the Iris purple, albeit a different lace than the Etsy kits. Those kits have the same pretty lace as is shown in the photo above in Sea Breeze blue.

As an opening bonus, you can win a kit for free! If you win, you'll get your choice of any available kit that has not sold or if your favorite color is gone, I'll custom dye a kit in that color for you. See what's available on Etsy, and leave a comment on this post. I'll draw a winner at 6:00p EST tomorrow, Friday, June 26, 2009. [Edited to extend contest time!]